Just 4km out of Maó, you pass the short and clearly signposted country lane leading to Talatí de Dalt , another illuminating Talayotic remnant. Much larger than Trepucó, the site is enclosed by a Cyclopean wall and features an imposing taula , which is adjacent to the heaped stones of the main talayot. All around are the scant remains of prehistoric dwellings. The exact functions of these are not known, but there's no doubt that the taula was the village centrepiece, and probably the focus of religious ceremonies. The rustic setting is charming - olive and carob trees abound and a tribe of boar roots around the undergrowth.

 

Cheese is a good reason to stop at ALAIOR , 12km from Maó, an old market town which has long been the nucleus of the island's dairy industry. There are two major companies, both of which have factory shops near to - and clearly signposted from - the old main road, as it cuts across the southern periphery of the town centre: come off the new bypass at the most easterly of the three Alaior exits and follow the signs. Approaching from Maó, the first shop is owned by La Payesa (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 5-8pm), while the second is the bigger and better outlet of Coinga (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 5-8pm, Sat 9am-1pm). Both companies sell a similar product, known generically as queso Mahon , after the port from which it was traditionally exported. It's a richly textured, white, semi-fat cheese made from pasteurized cow's milk with a touch of ewe's milk added for extra flavour. The cheese is sold at four different stages of maturity, either tierno (young), semi-curado (semi-mature), curado (mature) or añejo (very mature). Both shops have the full range and, although quite expensive, their prices are the best you'll see.

On the hill above the cheese shops, the old centre of Alaior is a tangle of narrow streets and bright white houses set beneath the imposing church of Santa Eulàlia . Apart, however, from a quick gambol up and down the hill, there's not much reason to hang around - unless you happen to be here the second weekend of August when Alaior lets loose during the Festa de Sant Llorenç .