Of more substantial interest than Zahara de la Sierra, and a better place to break the journey, is ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA . This was taken from the Moors in 1264, over two centuries before Zahara fell - an impressive feat, for it stands high above the Río Guadalete on a double crag and must have been a wretchedly impregnable fortress. This dramatic location, enhanced by low, white houses and fine sandstone churches, gives the town a similar feel and appearance to Ronda - only Arcos is poorer and, quite unjustifiably, far less visited. The streets of the town, despite particularly manic packs of local bikers, are if anything more interesting, with their mix of Moorish and Renaissance buildings. At the heart is the Plaza del Cabildo, easily reached by following the signs for the parador , which occupies one side of it. Flanking another two sides are the castle walls and the large Gothic-Mudéjar church of Santa María de la Asunción ; the last side is left open, offering plunging views to the river valley.