The village of CANDELEDA , on the Arenas-Jarandilla road, is nothing special but it's amazingly popular with Spanish summer holiday-makers, who book its hostales weeks in advance. The turismo is in the Casa Cultura, close to the Plaza Mayor (daily 10am-1.30pm & 5-8pm; tel 920 380 396), and can provide helpful information on walking and hiking in the area. If you're planning ahead, the best-value place to stay is Hostal La Pastora (tel 920 382 127; ¬27-36) and the fanciest the Hostal Pedrós (tel 920 380 951; ¬27-36). Campers sometimes set up their tents alongside the river, west of town.

 

At MADRIGAL DE LA VERA , a more attractive village 12km to the west of Candeleda, there's an official campsite, Alardos (tel 927 565 066; March-Sept), and yet another route across the Gredos, this time leading to Bohoyo , a hamlet 4km southwest of El Barco de Ávila.