South of Mojácar beach lie a succession of small, isolated coves, the most accessible of them reached down a rough coastal track that turns off towards the sea just under 4km down the road to Carboneras. The scenic Mojácar-Carboneras road itself winds perilously through the hills some way inland, and offers only occasional access to some tempting beaches. There's no bus on this stretch either, and you'd need to be very intent on escaping the crowds to want to drive this way.

 

CARBONERAS has an average beach and a few hostales but is scarred by the shadow of a massive cement factory, which dominates its bay. Beyond, a small road extends to the isolated fishing hamlet of AGUA AMARGA , an infinitely more attractive spot with a fine beach backed by a tasteful crop of villas. There are limited places to stay , of which the best is easily the French-run Pensión Family (tel 950 138 014, fax 950 138 208; ¬36-48), which has a good restaurant with a great value menú ; you'll need to book well ahead in high season. Both Carboneras and Agua Amarga are served by bus from Almería.

North from Mojácar there's easier access, with occasional buses and reasonably easy hitching, to LA GARRUCHA , a lively, if unattractive, town and fishing harbour. This is in the process of development, with villas now thick on the ground and many more in the offing, but it does have a life of its own besides tourism. There are several expensive hostales and a summer-only youth hostel , but you're more likely to visit its reasonable beach as a good afternoon's break from Mojácar. There are also some fine fish restaurants around the fishing harbour; El Almejero , with its terrace actually fronting the quayside, is one of the best - if the fish landed don't meet their high standards, they don't open - and they have an equally excellent tapas bar, too.