Up until two hundred years ago CHIPUDE , served by the bus between San Sebastián and Valle Gran Rey, was La Gomera's largest town. Today only the relatively large sixteenth-century Iglesia de la Virgen de la Candelaria , dominating the central plaza, hints at the former importance of the town. Beside it, a couple of bars serve basic food and provide accommodation , but there are no shops in town. Bar Pensión Sonia (tel 922/804 158; ¬12-24) on the plaza offers excellent, hotel-quality en-suite rooms, sometimes playing host to large hiking parties. Large dishes of gofio stand on tables in its restaurant, ready for the good, if basic, food, off a menu that's limited to one soup and one main course every night. Bar Navarro (tel 922/804 132; ¬12-24) next door is not quite so good value, but still a friendly place to stay or eat tapas.