A rural hamlet set amid lush cultivated terraces and dense laurel thickets, overlooking the Hermigua valley, EL CEDRO is the national park at its best; a good place to stop on longer hikes, or, as the only place to stay in the park, a destination in itself. Connected to a minor road at the eastern end of the national park via a driveable dirt road, El Cedro is at the meeting point of several excellent hiking trails, through some of the densest, darkest laurel forest on the island.

 

One stunning trail to El Cedro descends through premium laurel forest from Garajonay, via Alto de Contadero and past the small Mudéjar -style chapel Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Lourdes, takes around two hours to reach the village. From here the trail descends down the ravine at the centre of town to become one of the island's prettiest hikes, with great panoramas over the lush Hermigua valley a further two hours below. The distinct path passes a small waterfall (part of La Gomera's only stream), a couple of dams and an old gofio mill - the grindstone is still here. It crosses the stream several times along the way, before turning into banana plantations (by a couple of tin-roof shacks) and arriving in Hermigua.

Another route to El Cedro works its way up from the head of the Hermigua valley and includes the possibility of an exciting hike through a 575m underground water tunnel - not for the claustrophobic, nor for those without a torch. To reach the head of the trail, take the bus that runs between Hermigua and San Sebastián and ask to be dropped off at the El Rejo junction. From here head a little further down the main road towards Hermigua, then climb up a track that leads past a chapel to a minor road. The route crosses this road, arriving at the water tunnel, which took 26 years to chisel by hand, was once used to transport water between valleys to help irrigate Hermigua's thirsty banana plantations. An alternative route runs from the start of the tunnel over the hill to El Cedro.

In El Cedro Bar La Vista (tel 922/880 949) serves good, hearty Gomeran food , in lovely outdoor surroundings, offers simple rooms (¬12-24) and runs a small campsite (¬2 per site) - the island's only one - and the only place you can legally pitch in the park.