Set on the northwestern tip of the marismas , EL ROCÍO is a tiny village of white cottages and a church stockade where perhaps the most famous pilgrimage-fair of the south takes place annually at Pentecost. This, the Romería del Rocío , is an extraordinary spectacle, with whole village communities and local "brotherhoods" from Huelva, Sevilla and even Málaga converging on horseback and in lavishly decorated ox carts. Throughout the procession, which climaxes on the Saturday evening, there is dancing and partying, while by the time the carts arrive at El Rocío they've been joined by busloads of pilgrims. The fair commemorates the miracle of Nuestra Señora del Rocío (Our Lady of the Dew), a statue found, so it is said, on this spot and resistant to all attempts to move it elsewhere. The image, credited with all kinds of magic and fertility powers, is paraded before the faithful early on the Sunday morning.

 

El Rocío is a nice place to stay, with wide, sandy streets, cowboy-hatted horse-riding farmers and a frontier-like feeling. Accommodation prices, however, tend to be on the high side; do not even think about a getting a room during the romería as they not only cost over ten times normal prices, but are booked up years ahead. Worth a try in quieter times are the Hostal Isidro , Avda. los Ansares 59 (tel 959 442 242; ¬36-48), and Hostal Cristina , c/Real 32 (tel 959 406 513; ¬27-36). Moving upmarket, there's a choice between the inviting Hotel Toruño , Plaza Acebuchal 22 (tel 959 442 323, fax 959 442 338; ¬48-60), with marismas views, and the even plusher Puente del Rey , Avda. Canaliega 1 (tel 959 442 575, fax 959 442 070; ¬60-90). In the spring, as far as bird-watching goes, the town is probably the best base in the area. The marismas and pine woods adjacent to the town are teeming with birds, and following tracks east and southeast of El Rocío, along the edge of the reserve itself, you'll see many species (up to a hundred if you're lucky).