FIGUERES , a provincial town with a population of some thirty thousand, would pass almost unnoticed were it not for the Museu Dalí , installed by Salvador Dalí in a building as surreal as the exhibits within. It's a popular day-trip from Barcelona, though you should make a reasonably early start since even the fastest buses take ninety minutes to reach the town. Figueres itself tends to be overshadowed by the museum, which is the only reason most people come here. But stay longer - perhaps even overnight - and you'll find a pleasing town with a lively central rambla and plenty of cheap food and accommodation.