GUADALAJARA , north from Alcalá de Henares, is not terribly exciting despite its famous name. Severely battered during the Civil War, it's now a small industrial city, provincial and scruffy. There are, however, a few worthwhile buildings which survived bombardment, notably the Palacio del Infantado (Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm & 4.15-7pm, Sun 10.15am-2pm; ¬1.20) and an assortment of medieval churches. The palacio , the former home of the Duke of Mendoza, boasts a wonderful decorative facade and cloister-like patio (Mon-Fri 9am-9pm, Sat & Sun 10am-2pm & 4-8pm; free), and now houses a fairly average local art museum. It is to be found a few blocks to the northwest of the town's large, park-like central square, Plaza Capitán Beixareu Rivera.

 

There's a friendly turismo opposite the palace (Mon-Sat 10am-2pm & 4-7pm, Sun 10am-2pm; tel 949 211 626). If you needed, or wanted, to stay , the recently refurbished Hotel España , c/Teniente Figueroa 3 (tel 949 211 303, fax 949 211 305; ¬36-48) is a decent option; even cheaper is Pensión Galicia , c/San Roque 16 (tel 949 220 059, fax 949 214 807; ¬27-36). Bars and restaurants are plentiful, too. Can Vic on Plaza Fernando Beládiez is a good, low-priced place, or for a seafood and fish blow-out there's Casa Victor at c/Bardales 6. Late-night and music bars are mostly to be found along c/Sigüenza. There is a regular train service from Madrid running every 15-30 minutes from Atocha from 5.30am-11.45 pm with a journey time of about 50 minutes.