In
physical
terms as
well as
in its
atmosphere
and
adventure,
IBIZA
TOWN
(
Ciutat
d'Eivissa
) is
easily
the most
attractive
place on
the
island.
Approach
by sea
and
you'll
get the
full
frontal
effect
of the
old
medieval
walls
rising
like a
natural
extension
of the
rocky
cliffs
which
protect
the
harbour.
Within
the
walls,
the
ancient
quarter
is
topped
by a
sturdy
cathedral,
whose
illuminated,
but
often
inaccurate,
clock
shines
out
across
the
harbour
throughout
the
night.
Daylight
hours
are
usually
spent on
the
beaches
at Ses
Salines
and Es
Cavellet
or the
nearer (but
not so
nice)
Figueretes.
In
summer,
the
streets
are
packed
with
people
exploring
the
whitewashed,
warren-like
port
area,
where
many of
the
fashionable
boutiques
stay
open
until
2am in
summer,
and
stalls
line the
pavements,
selling
everything
from
jewellery
and
sarongs
to Ibiza-mix
CDs.
Bars
stay
open
until
4am or
later,
and
afterwards
the
action
moves to
the
clubs
until
daylight,
and for
the
serious
hedonists,
there
are yet
more
after-hours
bar-clubs.
As a
break
from the
stress
of
sunbathing
and the
simple
pleasures
of
wandering
the
streets,
there
are a
couple
of
modest
museums
and
fancy
modern
art
galleries
with
prices
that
will
amaze
you even
if the
displays
don't.
The
Town
The
city's
stone
walls
reach a
dramatic
climax
at the
imposing
main
entrance,
the
Portal
de ses
Taules
, a
triple
gateway
designed
to
withstand
the
heaviest
artillery
barrage.
Inside
this
monumental
entrance
you
enter a
UNESCO
world
heritage
site -
the
entire
historic
enclave
of Dalt
Vila was
bestowed
the
honour
in
December
1999.
Just
beyond
the main
gate is
the
Plaça de
Vila,
packed
with
restaurants
and
cafés.
Here
too,
above
the arch
of the
Portal
de ses
Taules,
is the
Museu
d'Art
Contemporani
(summer
Tues-Fri
10am-2pm
& 5-8pm,
Sat
10am-2pm;
winter
Tues-Fri
10am-2pm
& 4-6pm,
Sat
10am-1.30pm;
¬2.40);
the
large
stone
premises
house
good
contemporary
art
exhibitions
and
cultural
events.
Heading
east
uphill
along Sa
Carrossa,
you'll
pass a
strip of
fine
restaurants,
and have
easy
access
to the
top of
the
walls,
which
provide
great
views
down
over the
town.
You'll
soon
reach
c/General
Balanzat,
where
the
sixteenth-century
church
of
Sant
Domingo
(also
known as
the
Església
de Sant
Pere)
stands
next to
its
former
monastery,
converted
in 1838
into the
ajuntament
, which
overlooks
the
pretty,
palm-lined
Plaça
d'Espanya.
Across
the
square a
long
tunnel
leads
through
the
walls; a
five-minute
walk
around
their
exterior
will
take you
back
into the
old town
at the
Baluard
de Santa
Tecla
above
Plaça de
la
Catedral.
Some
90m
above
sea
level,
the site
of the
Catedral
(Tues-Sun:
June-Sept
9am-4pm;
Oct-May
10am-2pm;
free)
has been
a place
of
worship
for over
2000
years.
Originally
a
Carthaginian
temple
graced
this
pivotal
position
above
the
harbour,
then a
Roman
replacement
was
constructed,
dedicated
to the
god
Mercury,
and
later a
mosque.
Today's
thirteenth-century
cathedral
is
pleasingly
austere,
its
sombre,
sturdy
Gothic
lines
supported
by giant
buttresses.
Inside,
the
decor is
far less
attractive:
whitewashed
throughout,
with
somewhat
trite
Baroque
embellishments.
A plaque
commemorates
the
massacre
of over
a
hundred
churchmen,
soldiers
and
ordinary
islanders
at the
hands of
anarchists
during
the
Civil
War. The
cathedral's
museum
is
closed
for
renovation
at the
time of
writing
but is
scheduled
to
reopen
with
displays
of
ecclesiastical
regalia:
bishops'
mitres,
sandals,
gloves,
cloaks
and so
on.
Across
the
square
is the
Museu
Arqueològic
d'Eivissa
i
Formentera
(April-Sept
Tues-Sat
10am-2pm
&
5pm-8pm,
Sun
10am-2pm;
Oct-March
Tues-Sat
10am-1pm
&
4pm-6pm,
Sun
10am-2pm;
¬1.80
with a
collection
of local
archeological
finds.
The
majority
of the
objects
on
display
are from
Phoenician
and
Carthaginian
(Punic)
sites,
but
there
are also
some
bones
from
Formentera
that
date
back to
1600 BC,
and
various
Arab and
Roman
curiosities.
If this
whets
your
appetite,
check
with the
turisme
to see
if the
museum
on Via
Romana,
on the
slopes
of Puig
des
Molins -
a hill
just
west of
Dalt
Vila -
has
reopened,
as this
contains
many
finds
from a
huge
Punic
necropolis
that was
excavated
here.
Among
the
objects
unearthed
were
some
decorative
terracotta
pieces,
clay
figurines,
amphoras
and
amulets
depicting
Egyptian
gods.
Ibiza,
the
sacred
island
of the
goddess
Tanit,
functioned
as a A-list
burial
site,
with
wealthy
Carthaginians
paying
by
special
minted
currency
for the
shipment
of their
bodies
to the
island
upon
death,
in
anticipation
of a
fast-track
passage
to
heaven.
Outside
the
walls
Not
quite as
grand,
nor as
ancient
as the
Dalt
Vila,
the
Sa Penya
quarter
of the
lower
town
snuggles
between
the
harbour
and the
ramparts,
a maze
of raked
passages
and
narrow
streets
crimped
by
balconied,
whitewashed
houses.
Here,
especially
along
the
waterside
promenade
and c/d'Enmig,
the
evening
passeig
reaches
its
exuberant
peak and
everyone
- local
and
visitor
alike -
gravitates
towards
the bars
and
restaurants.
This is
where
many of
the
shops
are too,
occupying
almost
every
doorway
that
isn't a
bar.
Finally,
and
further
to the
west,
the
new town
is
generally
of less
interest,
but
there's
activity
here as
well,
centred
on the
boulevard-like
Passeig
de Vara
de Rey
and the
leafy,
traffic-free
Plaça
des Parc
just to
the
south.
Both
places
have
scores
of cafés
and
restaurants
and are
popular
meeting
places.