LANJARÓN has been subject to tourism and the influence of the outside world for longer than anywhere else in the Alpujarras due to the curative powers of its spa waters , sold in bottled form throughout Spain. Between March and December the spa baths are open, and the town fills with the aged and infirm. The place itself is little more than a ribbon of buildings, mostly modern, flanking the road through the village, the Avenida Alpujarra, and its continuation, the Avenida Andalucía. Below, marking Lanjarón's medieval status as the gateway to the Alpujarras, is a Moorish castle, now dilapidated and barely visible. A ten-minute stroll reveals its dramatic setting - follow the signs down the hill from the main street and out onto the terraces and meadows below the town.

 

The countryside and mountains within a day's walk of Lanjarón, however, are beyond compare. Walk up through the backstreets behind the town and you'll come across a track that takes you steeply up to the vast spaces of the Reserva Nacional de la Sierra Nevada . For a somewhat easier day's walk out of Lanjarón, go to the bridge over the river just east of town and take the sharply climbing, cobbled track which parallels the river . After two to two-and-a-half hours through small farms, with magnificent views and scenery, a downturn to a small stone bridge permits return to Lanjarón on the opposite bank. Allow a minimum of six hours.

Should you wish to try a cure at the Balneario on Avenida Alpujarra (open March-Dec), a basic soak will cost about ¬9, with add-ons for massage, mud baths and all kinds of other alarming-sounding tracciónes and inyecciónes . Opposite is Lanjarón's semi-official information kiosk (open office hours; tel 958 770 282), and midway along the same street is the Alsina Graells bus terminal .

Largely to cater for the Balneario's clients, there's no shortage of hotels and pensiones in the town. The grand-looking Hotel España , Avda. Alpujarra 42 (tel & fax 958 770 187; ¬27-36), next door to the balneario , is very friendly and has a pool. Further along the road, a signed turnoff leads downhill to the delightful Apartamentos Castillo Alcadima , c/General Rodrigo 3 (tel & fax 958 770 809, www.castillo-alcadima.es ; ¬36-48), which has excellent studio apartments with kitchenette and stunning balcony views over the castle below the town, as well as a pool and pleasant terrace restaurant. The proprietor also hires out mountain bikes and offers horse-riding treks and rock-climbing courses. Towards the east end of town and before the church, Bar Galvez , c/Real 95 (tel 958 770 087; ¬12-18), offers the cheapest rooms in town and has excellent meals, while 1km east of town, there are peaceful inexpensive en-suite rooms with great views, plus tasty tapas and a ¬6 menú , at the Venta El Buñuelo (tel 958 770 350; ¬12-18).

Lanjarón has plenty of restaurants and tapas bars too, many attached to the hotels. The Manolete , c/San Sebastián 3, is much esteemed by the locals for its tapas, while the more expensive El Club at Avda. de Andalucía 18 specializes in Alpujarran dishes and is reckoned to serve the best food in town. For seafood (also offering some meat and vegetarian dishes) try Los Mariscos , Avda. de La Alpujarra 6, in a small square off the east end of the main street. There's even a nightclub , Noche Azul , on the corner of the main square, while a new disco-bar, El Barco , has opened down a flight of steps opposite.