Some 50km north of Madrid, on the shores of the Santillana embalse (reservoir), lies MANZANARES EL REAL , a town which in former times was disputed between the capital and Segovia. Nowadays it's a somewhat tatty resort, geared to Madrid weekenders, whose villas dot the landscape for miles around. Nearby however, the ruggedly beautiful La Pedriza , a spur of the Sierra de Guadarrama, has been declared a regional park (access limited to 500 cars a day at weekends; free), and has some enjoyable walks, as well as some much-revered technical climbs, notably the ascent to the jagged Peña del Diezmo. It is also home to a very large colony of griffon vultures.

 

In Manzanares itself, the one attraction is the castle (daily 10am-1pm & 3-5.30pm; free), which despite its eccentric appearance is a perfectly genuine fifteenth-century construction, built around an earlier chapel. It was soon modified into a palace by the architect Juan Guas, who built an elegant gallery on the south side, false machicolations on the other, and studded the tower with stones resembling cannonballs. The interior has been heavily restored.

As befits Manzanares, accommodation is expensive and limited to Hostal Tranco (tel 918 530 423; ¬27-36), and Hotel Parque Real (tel 918 539 912, fax 918 539 960; ¬48-60). However, there is usually space at one of the two campsites , El Ortigal (tel 918 530 120) at the foot of La Pedriza or the well-equipped La Fresneda (tel & fax 918 476 523) on the Carretera M608 towards Soto del Real. Food is not cheap either, but good meals can be had at Los Arcos in c/Real and the Restaurante Parra in c/Panaderos. Buses from Madrid run hourly (7.30am-9.30pm) from c/Mateo Inurria 11 (Metro Plaza de Castilla).