Twenty kilometres southeast of Alcalá, or 45km from Madrid, NUEVO BAZTÁN should appeal to anyone interested in architecture, planning or merely the unusual. It was designed and built in 1709-13 by José de Churriguera in response to a commission from the royal treasurer, who aimed to develop a local decorative arts industry. Today it's semi-deserted, though brash modern villas are being built nearby for well-heeled commuters to the capital. As a focus, Churriguera built a palace and church as a single architectural unit; the latter has a massive twin-towered facade and a central dome and retablos by the architect within. Behind the palace, now fenced off, is the Plaza de Fiestas , complete with balconies for watching celebrations. The houses of the workers comprise the rest of the settlement.

 

The best day to visit Nuevo Baztán is Sunday. Empresa Izquierdo, c/Goya 80 (Metro Goya), runs two buses daily from Madrid but only on Sunday do these allow you any time here, and this is also the only day the church is sure to be open